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ABOUT INNOVATIONS ON SEWING MACHINES
1880
Dingler's Polytechnical Journal
The devices on shuttle machines from James McAllister in Chicago, North America (DRP Nr 9.312 from October 23, 1879) show peculiar lever connections, with the vibrations of the needle-bar arm from an eccentric and a crank disk of the short drive shaft, the shifts of the curling and the movements of the cloth back are brought about. There is a spring to regulate the thread tension, which pulls the superfluous thread during needle lowering and finally there is one arm moved by the needle bar lever at the same time, which pulls the thread out of its path when the stitch is tensioned.
The winding device for sewing machines from A. Zimmer in Berlin (* DRP No. 9493 dated November 16, 1879) contains the following connecting pieces for transmitting the movement from the bobbin axis to the thread guide: a thread is cut into the former, in which a screw wheel engages; the shaft of this helical wheel transmits the rotation to a larger wheel by means of a small spur gear and to this the cam disc is connected, on the edge of which the thread guide slide is pressed by a spring. The shape of the curve disc | 208 |is that of a plate cut out in a cross shape, the 8 side edges of which are bent by pieces of spiral lines, so that they always push the thread guide back and forth evenly. The guide's slide moves an adjustable lever, in the slot of which the thread lies and whose stroke can be adjusted according to the bobbin length.
Innovations in lockstitch sewing machines for gloves from Karl Necker and Rich. Horstmann in Berlin (* DRP Supplement No. 9340 from September 19, 1879). In the facility specified in the main patent (cf. 1880 236 26) the following changes have been made: the cylinder or arm, in which the sewing needle sticks from bottom to top, is no longer crooked, but vertical in the machine, so that the needle penetrates through the fabric at right angles, making smaller holes in it and him thus spares. With this needle position, the shape and arrangement of the shuttle run is simpler; yes, the boat can even be given a horizontal, straight-line movement by a push rod reaching from the vertical drive shaft, which comprises an eccentric of the former.
Innovations on sewing and embroidery machines for the production of a double tambourir cross stitch by J. Gutmannin Berlin (* DRP No. 9629 dated November 12, 1879.) According to the new device, the well-known drum machine, which works with a pointed hook needle, contains two such needles in the needle bar, which go up and down evenly and at a certain distance from each other. The thread guide below the sewing table top consists of two vertical tubes, each carrying a thread, which are carried by a hollow cylinder and rotated around its axis by the ring gear and rack. Both tubes are initially on a horizontal plate, which can be tilted against the cylinder, so that the tubes are temporarily crooked, facing away from the descending needles. An angle lever, which grips the plate at the edge and is moved by an eccentric of the drive shaft, causes this inclination of the tubes. If the cylinder with the guide tubes is turned ½ times during a stitching time, the two threads cross below the fabric, and when the tubes incline after the needles have been lowered, they put the threads securely in the hooks of the needles. This gives each needle alternately one thread and another; it provides a colorful seam for two threads of different colors. You can now also attach a third needle to the rod between the two needles and attach a third guide tube below the table top, which always passes its thread to the same needle, so that a smooth, simple seam is created between the two seams with crossing threads. It's finally over the top the two threads cross below the fabric, and if the tubes then incline after the needles have been lowered, they securely place the threads in the hooks of the needles. This gives each needle alternately one thread and another; it provides a colorful seam for two threads of different colors. You can now also attach a third needle to the rod between the two needles and attach a third guide tube below the table top, which always passes its thread to the same needle, so that a smooth, simple seam is created between the two seams with crossing threads. It's finally over the top the two threads cross below the fabric, and if the tubes then incline after the needles have been lowered, they securely place the threads in the hooks of the needles. This gives each needle alternately one thread and another; it provides a colorful seam for two threads of different colors. You can now also attach a third needle to the rod between the two needles and attach a third guide tube below the table top, which always passes its thread to the same needle, so that a smooth, simple seam is created between the two seams with crossing threads. It's finally over the top it provides a colorful seam for two threads of different colors. You can now also attach a third needle to the rod between the two needles and attach a third guide tube below the table top, which always passes its thread to the same needle, so that a smooth, simple seam is created between the two seams with crossing threads. It's finally over the top it provides a colorful seam for two threads of different colors. You can now also attach a third needle to the rod between the two needles and attach a third guide tube below the table top, which always passes its thread to the same needle, so that a smooth, simple seam is created between the two seams with crossing threads. It's finally over the top| 209 | Sewing table top a guide with a decorative thread attached, which he puts around the needles so that it is also attached to the fabric.
The changes to Cornely's disengagement for Bonnaz stitching machines by Paul Lintz in Berlin (* DRP No. 9368 from May 17, 1879) consist of the following: The crank handle underneath the table top of a tambourine machine, with which the needle, fabric bobbin is turned and thread guide is carried out by the hand of the worker, is mounted on a vertical, longitudinally displaceable shaft, which is held in the uppermost position when the machine is disengaged by a spring. But if the worker pulls the shaft downwards, a cone screwed to it pushes an angle lever to the side, the other arm of which moves the rail to engage the machine.
The drive device on sewing machines from Hugo Königin Berlin (* DRP No. 9365 of September 27, 1879) mediates the slow or fast rotation of a number of sewing machines from a transmission shaft by the following arrangement: Each sewing machine table rests on a column, which has the bearings for the common horizontal drive shaft below and the one above Bearings for a short countershaft. Each of these shafts has a double friction disc, on each of which a smaller disc is pressed on both ends; the latter are attached to two vertical shafts, the bearings of which pull a spring against each other, while at the same time they can be raised and lowered with a slider. A foot pedal is connected to this slide by a pull rod; now lift the vertical connecting waves with it, So the driven disks come gradually to the larger diameter of the driving and above the driving to smaller diameters of the driven, which has the consequence that the latter rotate faster, i.e. also drive the sewing machine faster due to the connected cord wheel. The reverse occurs when the friction shafts are lowered. The lower friction disks are cut out in the middle and no longer drive the machine if the vertical shafts are lowered so low that their disks face these points. The reverse occurs when the friction shafts are lowered. The lower friction disks are cut out in the middle and no longer drive the machine if the vertical shafts are lowered so low that their disks face these points. The reverse occurs when the friction shafts are lowered. The lower friction disks are cut out in the middle and no longer drive the machine if the vertical shafts are lowered so low that their disks face these points.
The innovations by Wilhelm Just in Magdeburg (* DRP No. 10095 dated November 18, 1879) show a peculiar drive device : the footboard CB ( Fig. 17 to 19 plate 15) is made up of two handlebar rods, which ultimately unite to form a single one, connected with a horizontal flywheel A below the sewing table top. The center of this flywheel is perpendicular to the intersection of the axis of rotation of the running board and the connecting line CB of the two handlebars ( Fig. 18) and the upper end of the latter lies in a ball bearing of a flywheel arm. This makes it possible to turn the flywheel by means of the running board, from which in turn the movement is transmitted by a belt to the drive shaft i ( FIGS. 18 and 19 ) of the machine. This drive shaft again carries a small flywheel and gives all parts the movement necessary for stitch formation.
A new hook movement and a bobbin case by Gustav Ludwig in Berlin (* DRP No. 10 050 dated September 16, 1879) relates to the arrangement of the lockstitch machine by which the lower thread is not pushed into the loop of the upper thread with a shuttle, but vice versa the latter from a hook | 210 |detected and pulled around the bobbin of the lower thread. The hook used for this sits on an unequal arm lever which is rotated in a circle by a crankshaft of the drive shaft at its shorter end and is supported in such a way that the longer end with the hook also describes a circle around the bobbin holder. The coil is enclosed by a double-conical housing and held in place by two rings in such a way that it presses against three resilient projections of each ring. This prevents all rattling of the housing while the machine is in motion and the loop can easily slide around it. The gripper lever grips the needle loop as it runs through the upper part of its circle and leaves it again after about ¾ turn, if he has run them fairly all over the case; the loop is then held back by a web of the support channel and pulled out of the gripper hook.
The sewing machine for producing an overlocking seam by L. and J. Bollmann jr.in Penzig near Vienna (* DRP No. 10055 dated August 13, 1879) works with a rotating boat below the sewing table top, a tambourine needle (or sewing needle with ear open on one side), which pierces through the fabric from bottom to top, and with one over gripper or thread catcher lying on the table top and creates a chain stitch seam from a thread in such a way that the thread loop of each stitch is drawn around the edges of the materials to be sewn together and pierced again on the opposite side by the shuttle and its thread. So the seam is not formed by a smooth, overlapping thread layer, but by a chain, and the difference in its manufacture compared to the work of the well-known Rudolf or Hilscher-Hertelian sewing machines is that
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For machines deliver what really überwendliche seam as that of handicrafts, which are new features for sewing machines determined by Laing ' s Patent overhead hand-stitch Sewing Machine Companyin Dundee, Scotland (* DRP No. 9802 from February 11, 1879). In the device specified herewith, a helical or cylindrical, spiral-shaped needle with an open ear is used, which pierces the fabric and places the simple thread around the seam edge; it is stuck with three turns in the fabric, is held between conical or cylindrical rollers and is turned over by one or more of these, which are provided with grooves. The grooves of the drive rollers are right-handed and the turns of the needle are left-handed, so that the latter always remains in the same place during its rotation. The back of the fabric consists of a Vaucanson chain set with laces, which is guided over rollers and is constantly driven by one of them, thus also constantly pulling the fabric away. (See.Laing 1877 224 * 259. )
The buttonhole sewing machine for sewing machines by G. Neidlinger shows an interesting devicein Hamburg (* DRPP No. 10326 from September 21, 1879), which can be attached to any Singer sewing machine if you want to sew around with these buttonholes without making any changes to the machine itself. The effective part in this apparatus is a crochet needle, which draws the lower thread in loop form over the sewing edge with each stitch, so that the ordinary needle must pierce through this loop at the top. This creates an imitated seam formed from two threads, which wraps around the sewing edge of the buttonhole and a strong thread lying on it. The apparatus for guiding and moving the hook needle is screwed onto the sewing machine head, but its movement is brought about by the descending needle bar in interaction with a spiral spring. An auxiliary needle, moved by the hook needle, pushes the thread loop out of the hook at the right time. In addition to the opening for the usual sewing needle, the presser foot to be used for buttonhole sewing also has one for the hook needle and a third one for the strong thread that is fed in and attached to the buttonhole edge. While the hook needle pulls the thread loop up, it turns 90 °, because with a pin protruding from it at a right angle, it is inserted in a sinuous groove of its guide sleeve and its shape must follow.
A facility on sewing machines for jerking the sewing thread from SB Ellithorp in Rochester, NY, North America (* DRP No. 10018 from December 24, 1879) is intended to coat the upper and lower thread with liquid wax during the sewing of each stitch. It is therefore a so-called beneath the table top. Nuremberg or | 212 |Soldier scissors attached, from which the two arms of one end are alternately pulled up and down by a cam disk of the drive shaft, while the two arms of the other end carry small sponges and then press them against the needle when the latter pulls up both loops of thread. The first pivot pin of the scissor arms is firmly in the frame and the last (located at the end that carries the sponges) moves back and forth in a straight slot in the frame, according to the path of the front end of the scissors. During this movement, the sponges first slide along the surface of a quantity of wax in a container, then approach the needle and coat it and the thread loops with wax.
The innovations in sewing machines from G. Juengst in New York (* DRP No. 9823 dated December 14, 1879) consist of devices for stitch tension, fabric backing and thread tension on those machines that work with the double lockstitch and with an oscillating hook underneath of the sewing table top, loop the loop of the sewing needle around the entire bobbin holder of the lower thread. The vibrations of this gripper or hook are derived by a conical wheel and a wheel segment from a vibrating shaft, which in turn receives its movement from the drive shaft by means of a crank and eccentric. The occurring multiple combinations of new pieces make it worthwhile to study the patent specification.
Innovations on Carter's automatic winder for sewing machines from Clemens Müller in Dresden(* DRP No. 10407 of January 3, 1880). Those small spool wheels with which the yarn is wound onto the shuttle spools should no longer be placed close to the flywheel driving them, but instead should be constantly pressed against them by spring pressure during the work. For this reason, a hole has been drilled in the right-angled part of the base plate and a small spiral spring has been inserted, which turns the entire apparatus so that the rubber-coated drive pulley is pressed against the flywheel. When disengaging, the apparatus carries an angular arm, which in one position presses against the frame and keeps the winding wheel away from the flywheel, but in the other allows it to approach it; this arm is held in place by a spring.
Innovations to Carter's self-winder for sewing machines from Seidel and Naumann in Dresden (* DRP No. 10432 of January 22, 1880) are intended, in contrast to the above change of Cl. Müller, a disengagement of the winding wheel, causes a spring and an inclination of the same to the flywheel of the sewing machine by turning the winding device and pressing his drive wheel against the flywheel by means of a lever and an adjusting screw. Simple mechanisms for thread guidance are also given.
The stitch regulator for elastic sewing machines from Claes and Flentje in Mühlhausen, Thuringia (* DRP No. 10374 dated December 16, 1879) is suitable for such a machine, the fabric back of which acts from above on the goods to be sewn in such a way that it is from one the cone on the needle bar is displaced during the needle movement and moved with the fabric. After the new installation, a circular eccentric determines the height of this cone and the lever holding it, i.e. also the thrust of the goods. The stitch size can be changed in a simple and easy way by turning the eccentric on a divided arc; it is also easy for the worker to handle since it is attached to the side of the front part of the needle arm holder.
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Arrangement and management of the shuttle driver for sewing machines from Claes and Flentje (* DRP No. 10405 from September 16, 1879). In machines with a circular shuttle, especially in cylinder machines, which contain little space for the attachment of the shuttle, the plate on which the shuttle is placed and through whose upward-extending projections it is turned around is connected to a spur gear, which in the the bottom wall of the sewing cylinder and rotates freely around a bolt which is attached to a plate screwed to the bottom of the cylinder. The forehead wheel is rotated back and forth by a rack and takes the boat around in a circular arc.
Innovations in sewing machines from JM Averyin Brooklyn, North America (* DRP No. 10709 dated February 27, 1880) contain a peculiar means of operating the shuttle in a straight line: the main shaft in the needle arms of the machine has a circular disc, the plane of which is an acute angle with the shaft axis forms. This ensures that the lever, which loosely surrounds the disc with a ring, swings back and forth in the vertical plane during the rotation of the latter. This lever moves the shuttle through a connecting rod. The hub of the oblique disc also carries an eccentric, which, by means of a lever connection, communicates all necessary movements to the fabric backer, of which the horizontal displacement, i.e. the determination of the stitch length, can also be made variable.
Innovations on the Bonnaz embroidery machine by E. Cornely in Paris (* DRP addition No. 10524 from February 12, 1880). The guide device for the decorative thread, which is attached above the sewing table top (cf. main patent 1880 236.381) can be disengaged to produce the simple reel stitch by loosely inserting the drive wheel on the horizontal main shaft of the embroidery machine and pressing it against a firm muff by means of a spiral spring, the protruding pin of which engages in an incision in the wheel hub. If you move the spur gear to the side and press the drive pin of the muff against a recess in the wheel hub, it will hold itself in a position in which it cannot have a driving effect on the driver's apparatus. When the decorative thread is tightened, it is guided through the ear of a spindle that can be rotated in the guide, which can be turned in such a way that the thread partly extends around the circumference of the spindle and is thus tensioned by friction.
Published by Johann Zeman and Dr. Ferd. Fischer in Augsburg in Hanover
1880