Fiddlebase
WELTING MACHINES
Charles Goodyear Jr. did not Invent the Welting Machine, according Dan’s research, here is the story:
“The fact of the matter is that around 1869 Goodyear Jr., who wielded the finances of his famous father’s estate, purchased a patent from a New York shoe producer named James Hanan for a modified sewing machine that used a curved needle and awl to sew welts onto shoes without taking them off the last or penetrating the insole. This new machine offered considerable advantages over the previously popular McKay (Blake stitch machine) method, but was riddled with mechanical difficulties. Upon purchasing the patent, Goodyear hired its original inventor Auguste Destouy and another mechanic named Daniel Mills to work for him at the American Shoe Tip Company and sort out the new machine’s shortcomings. Under Goodyear’s direction and, more importantly, with his financial support the two got to work and filed no fewer than 7 different patents between 1869 and 1876.
This effort resulted in the famous 1875 patent for the welting machine that would take on Goodyear’s name. Perhaps the fact that Goodyear’s name is on the patents is the reason why he is so often credited with actually inventing the machine but most of the evidence seems to indicate that his contribution came in the way of adapting and promoting his mechanics’ work rather than doing any of the actual inventing himself.
This, of course, is not to discredit his contributions as none of this could have happened without Goodyear’s involvement”. Dan (Lordpoint boot & leather)
Charles Goodyear Jr. did not Invent the Welting Machine, according Dan’s research, here is the story:
“The fact of the matter is that around 1869 Goodyear Jr, who wielded the finances of his famous father’s estate, purchased a patent from a New York shoe producer named James Hanan for a modified sewing machine that used a curved needle and awl to sew welts onto shoes without taking them off the last or penetrating the insole. This new machine offered considerable advantages over the previously popular McKay (Blake stitch machine) method, but was riddled with mechanical difficulties. Upon purchasing the patent, Goodyear hired its original inventor Auguste Destouy and another mechanic named Daniel Mills to work for him at the American Shoe Tip Company and sort out the new machine’s shortcomings.
Under Goodyear’s direction and, more importantly, with his financial support the two got to work and filed no fewer than 7 different patents between 1869 and 1876. This effort resulted in the famous 1875 patent for the welting machine that would take on Goodyear’s name Perhaps the fact that Goodyear’s name is on the patents is the reason why he is so often credited with actually inventing the machine but most of the evidence seems to indicate that his contribution came in the way of adapting and promoting his mechanics’ work rather than doing any of the actual inventing himself.
This, of course, is not to discredit his contributions as none of this could have happened without Goodyear’s involvement.”
Dan (Lordpoint boot & leather)
A Goodyear welt is a strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that runs along the perimeter of a shoe outsole. The machinery used for the process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear Jr., the son of Charles Goodyear.
In 1862 Auguste Destouy, a New York mechanic, invented a machine with a curved needle for sewing turn shoes (US 34.413).
GOODYEAR WELT CONSTRUCTION
Goodyear welted shoes are widely considered to be the best constructed around. It’s the oldest and most labor-intensive construction method in existence. It’s constructed in such a way that any cobbler can resole this shoe repeatedly, and it’s incredibly durable. Usually made with double soles with outsoles that jut out from the upper, this construction method is widely utilized in British footwear in particular. Like all shoes, these were originally made by hand. Charles Goodyear Jr. invented the machine to welt these shoes back in 1869. As you probably figured, this is where the name comes from. Though there are multiple steps throughout the whole process, but the main three are as follows:
1. Prepare the insole for stitching. The cordwainer creates a “rib” that runs across the insole. Some makers cut and sculpt the insole, and others use a different material like linen tape. The purpose of the rib is to house thread in a later step.
2. Attach the outsole and insole to the last.
3. Welt: Shoe-specific thread is sewn through the welt, upper and insole rib. The welt is then attached to the outsole through a second, separate stitch. A lockstitch is used for both of these stitches, which prevents unraveling if it wears out at any point in the shoe.
Pros: The upper is attached to the welt via one stitch, whereas the outsole is attached to the welt via a second separate stitch. Incredibly easy to resole repeatedly as a result, this extends the life of the shoes for years and years. The extra layers help with water resistance and support.
Cons: Some flexibility is lost with all these layers. Also, because the process is labor-intensive, Goodyear welted shoes are often more expensive than other types.